I wasn't very good at this. For the tenth time today I was being knocked around by this monstrous water. Why was I even agreeing to this? I mean, I've always been the one with no talent...
"Hey, you wanna go again?" my twin beckoned to me, walking up the sand, salty water dripping from his hair.
"Ok." I said, hesitating.
"Awe come-on, you'll get it." He said, handing me my board that I had dropped before plopping myself onto the sand to toast in the sun a bit. The board was warm and almost inviting. But...as I looked up it seemed that the water still was angry with me. It roared at me. Didn't look very inviting.
Matt was already splashing into the water. He looked back at me and waved me forward. Sighing, I started toward my fate again. Maybe this time I'll get really slammed and he'll let me go home.
We swam out together, he and I. I couldn't help smiling a little at how eager he was. What was it about this sport that made him glow so much? His eyes sparkled in excitement as he looked at me and grinned.
"Ok...here we go. Just concentrate and let the water do the work."
And her came the wave. I worked to keep my body on the board. It was wet and slippery. How did he ever stay on it? The water came up and I couldn't see Matt anymore. But I was really going to try this time. I kept my feet on the board and felt the water lift me. A spray of water hit my face and I put out my hands to block it.
Whoosh. The air seemed to crystallize on my face and hair. My heartbeat raced with exhilaration and it was a release I had never felt before.
Then it was over.
I looked up to see Matt still out in the water. He hadn't caught the wave. Throwing his hands into the air he let out a big WHOOOP for me and I felt a warm glow growing inside my chest.
Running and splashing back out in the water to him, I yelled, "Let's go again!"
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